sudha

Diamond Polki Jewelry

Until the late Middle Ages, diamonds were most prized in their natural octahedral state.. Around 1300, the flow of diamonds into Europe increased via Venice’s trade network, with most flowing through the low country ports of Bruges, Antwerp, and Amsterdam. During this time, the taboo against cutting diamonds into gem shapes, which was established over 1,000 years earlier in the traditions of India, ended allowing the development of diamond cutting technology to begin in earnest.

The Indians associated diamonds with divinity. The first Indian diamond jewelry was created for the purpose of decorating religious icons. According to Indian religious heritage diamonds were believed to be bearer of good fortune. Diamonds were considered to be so powerful and precious that the ownership of diamonds was actually controlled. Every caste was restricted to own specific colors of diamonds. Only the ruling king of the time was allowed to possess diamonds in all colors. This goes to show how exclusive diamonds were considered to be amongst the Indians.

The earliest recorded reference concerning Indian diamond jewelry has been found in a Sanskrit text known as “Arthashastra”. This was a historical Buddhist text dating back to 296 BCE.

Victorian jewelry is known for its exquisite ornate detail, often having laborious pave diamond settings or detailed filigree designs. The diamonds used in rose-cut jewelry or Polki jewelry are evaluated or graded in pretty much the same way as a regular round brilliant cut diamonds barring the last C which is for ‘Cut’.

More on how I have developed the designs for the contemporary woman in my next blog.

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National Geographic Home Page

check out my new silk sari patchwork jacket on the front page of National Geographic Catalog’s front page:

Click here to see that jacket and click here for more great items at National Geographic

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Museum catalogs featured Gemstone jewelry from Designs by Sudha

Precious stones have always fascinated me. IN the old days the costs of these stones were so prohibitive, few could afford them . People wore their wealth in the form of gold or silver and counted their blessings. Now with modern technology combined with less expensive ways of mining for these stones, more people can buy and wear them.

Emerald earrings, from Designs by Sudha was featured in the National Geographic catalog. Set in vermeil, it was attractive and affordable with a rich look! Emerald is symbolic of love and romance and is called the “stone of hope”. Ancients believed it treated eye problems and was a strong healing stone. It is said increase awareness of the beauty around us. It is the most precious of the beryl group.

Garnet brings Inner Strength. It is the “stone of constancy and commitment”; It provides the wearer with a sense of rootedness. In the Victorian era it was the stone of passionate love and fidelity, ruling all emotions and passions of the heart It inspires and promotes self-confidence in new beginnings. This simple yet elegant necklace was carried by The Art Institute of Chicago for many seasons.

Iolite symbolizes Inner Knowledge. It is also called cordierite and “water sapphire”. It is said to aid in resolving conflict; eliminates debt; facilitates responsibility; aids intuition. They say it helps the wearer to remember and to increase dreams; stone of power; enhances leadership, power, inner strength. This was one of my favorite necklaces and was carried by a wonderful catalog of handicrafts called Eziba. I had designed this in both iolite and garnets.

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Jewelry from Designs by Sudha for Compassion, protection and optimism!

Gemstones used in earrings this month have more than summer charm, they also symbolize the values I hold.

Chalcedony with its turquoise blue opaque color stands for Compassion. It is also said to banish fear and sadness. This earring was presented by House of Pennathur for Sundance Catalog this year and has been depicted beautifully by them. “In separateness lies the world’s great misery, in compassion lies the world’s true strength.” – Buddha

Citrine is embodies Radiance. It is said to attract wealth, blend energies for strength and protection, enhance memory, stimulates one’s mental capacities and strengthen ones self-confidence! It also happens to be the birthstone for November. These earrings are faceted citrine enhanced with delicate small pearls and finished with 14K gold filled posts.

Birthstone for April, the mighty diamond stands for purity. It is said to encourage honesty with self and with others and is said to promote bravery . This year I have worked with new designs in jewelry where to astronomical price of gold, I have used diamonds in silver setting with 14K gold as lining and bezel. This new way to treating gem stones and precious metals has made the baubles a lot more affordable and at the same time giving it a fresh new look!

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Decorative Arts in Kashmir Papier Mache

Decorative papier mache items have long been treasures of India. This ancient art form dates back to Persian times and has been passed down through the courts to the artisans homes in the picturesque Kashmir valley. The intricate paintings on boxes featured the beautiful Mughal gardens of Shalimar, Nishat and Chashmashahi. Gorgeous, colorful flowers

and leaves from these gardens have been my inspiration for the boxes, photo frames, bangles, ornaments that master craftsmen create for the museums around the country.

The 12 step craft process begins with sculpting, forming and finishing crushed paper, hand painting each piece and then layering it with multiple coats of varnish. More durable than wood, papier mache resists warping and cracking. Each piece is painstakingly created and is a stunning original. A treasured keepsake and a work of art!

Products from Designs by Sudha

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Art of Lacquer in Jewelry and Decorative Accessories

I have long been fascinated with the exquisitely handcrafted lacquer and gemstone Meenakari by jewelers in Jaipur, India. I first introduced this “Meenakari” enameling technique over lacquer on gold and silver jewelry. The necklace from Designs by Sudha is strung with garnets and mina chowkies” squares, and has been a signature piece in my collection. The process is laborious. A piece is fixed on a stick of lacquer and delicate floral designs engraved on it . Engravings are made in the groves and the enamel colors filled in with the delicacy of a miniature paintings. ‘Kundan’ and mina are part of great jewelry heritage of India.

In decorative arts, I introduced lacquer with mirrors during Diwali, the festival of lights in India some 26 years ago! I saw bangles being made in the streets of old Jaipur city on a street called “chudion ka rastha”. Literally translated means “street of bangles” where all the lac bangle makers sit in a row over hot flames crafting these lovely adornments. In the night when fireworks were resplendent, all the lac studded with mirrors reflected the light and were splendorous!

I thought why not expand this technique to other everyday used items and make life more colorful? From the bangles, an idea evolved from “ Designs by Sudha” of lac pocket mirrors reflecting the festival of lights, trinket boxes to hold your do-dads, mini frames for the dresser, lacquer handcrafted votives which had replaceable wax to make it more sustainable, lac ball ornaments for Christmas which were glitzy, lacquer pens with replaceable ink refills.

All these pieces in my handicraft collection have become sustainable, timeless treasures of art.

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Trends in Christmas Ornaments and Jewelry Adornments

In my world of unique crafts, “Ornaments” are small decorative objects for the Christmas tree and “Adornments” is jewelry used to beautify oneself, whether it be a necklace, a bracelet, ring or a pair of earrings. Designs by Sudha is in the business of both these types of ornamentation’s and adornments.

This year these have taken on an interesting twist. Customers who loved gold and glitz in their Christmas ornaments have turned to bright jewel tone colors. Fun stuffed animal ornaments made by gypsy craftsmen, hand painted papier mache animals from Kashmir, beaded birds and snowflakes from Agra have been the top choices of retailers. The traditional gold and silver has taken second place to the jewel tone ornaments. Skirts and stockings too have become more colorful with reds and golds with pearls.

Similarly with the price of metals going through the roof this year, I have focused on jewelry with more semi-precious stones and gold plating on silver (vermeil), and less on the pure precious metals. Diamonds once only set in gold are now being set using “polki diamonds” (these are uncut diamonds and very popular in the days of the Maharajas) , set in sterling silver with just accents of 14K gold in the bezel and backing. We will see a lot more of these interesting mixtures of metals and stones in my line this fall.

Pearls have become a girl’s best friend
and is featured throughout my line of jewelry and is a jewel of choice my museum catalogs.

Next week I will be featuring the art of lacquer in all areas of decorative handicrafts.

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Great Scots

We arrived in Edinburgh, Scotland by train from London on June 2^ndto warm sunny weather. Taking a quick glance at the inventions Scotland has gifted to the world it is no wonder they exclaim “Great Scot” when there is wonderment. Many of the products we use today were invented here!

Engineer and inventor John Logie Baird was the father of television and later developed ideas such as color, 3D and large screen TV. He was also the first to patent fibre-optics, the technology now used to carry telephone calls and Internet traffic. It was, of course, Edinburgh-born Alexander Graham Bell who invented the device in 1876.

Less celebrated, but just as influential are Scots figures James Chalmers who invented the adhesive postage stamp; Sir James Dewar, who created the vacuum flask, and Robert William Thomson who invented the vulcanized rubber pneumatic tyre in 1845, the fountain pen in 1849 and a steam traction engine in 1867. Unfortunately, he abandoned his idea for the pneumatic tire over fears it would be too expensive to produce, and it was only rescued in 1888 by his fellow countryman John Boyd Dunlop. A similar fate befell the unfortunate Kirkpatrick Macmillan, who first invented the bicycle. However, he failed to patent his invention and it was widely copied.

In medicine, Sir Alexander Fleming discovered the world’s first antibiotic drug – penicillin. Another groundbreaking inventor was James Gregory, who invented the reflecting telescope, developed later by Englishman Sir Isaac Newton.

Sir Thomas Lipton is credited with revolutionizing the retail grocery trade, buying, for example, tea plantations in Sri Lanka . He developed many of the marketing techniques employed by supermarkets today, and also, additionally, established the World Cup for soccer in 1910.

Another famous economist Adam Smith is now known as the father of political economy was from here. Famously, Scotland was the first country in the world to use the banknote.When I heard that the automated teller machine (ATM) was also developed in Scotland I was blown away.

We saw several museums including the National Gallery in Edinburgh, the Castle and Queen Elizabeth’s summer home called. All of them had well developed Museum gift shops with hordes of tourists! Interesting assortments of jewellery, ties, mugs and the usual memorabilia.

Personally the best shopping in Scotland was for Cashmere. It comes in one-ply and two-ply garments and accessories. (2 –ply being heavier and more expensive). One needs to be careful with the quality since much has been mixed with lamb’s wool, but could be labeled as 100% Cashmere. The best place to shop is directly with the factories in Hawick (pronounced Hoyk). “Hawick Cashmere of Scotland” is where Ed ordered a wonderful vest in 2 ply Cashmere. Johnston which has a shop in St. Andrews also has some wonderful sweaters.

We also discovered a great boutique with unique knitted jackets and sweaters in silk and wool. He had several one-offs.

The other thing they are famous for is Scotch whiskey. There is a tasting room and a Museum near the Edinburgh Castle. Being less adventuresome, we however did not indulge in this sport.

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Summer Stones

Summer is fast approaching and the flowers are in bloom. The colors of the gem stones resemble the flowers in nature.

Silver took a plunge after an enormous hike this year. Prices in India, however, did not ease too much. With silver being somewhat out of reach, I have been working on jewelry with semi-

precious and precious stones. As I uncover the significance of stones , symbols and colors in Eastern culture, it has been fun weaving them into meaningful jewelry and textiles. Here are a few stones that are in my collection:

Amethyst stands for spirituality: